Ordering a replacement walk-in door comes down to a 10-minute measuring job. This guide shows you exactly what to measure, what to skip, and the mistakes that cause 90% of mis-ordered doors. You'll need a tape measure, a phone camera, and ideally a helper.

Prefer a shortcut? Our Find Your Size tool matches your measurements to the right door automatically. And if you'd rather have a person check your numbers, call 313-528-7888 or email photos to sales@eltcustomcoolers.com — we size doors every day.

Start here

  • Replacing an existing door? You'll measure the rough opening (the hole in the wall), not the old door. Existing openings are typically matched to a plug frame.
  • Cutting a new opening? New openings are typically matched to a jamb frame. Measure the opening you plan to cut.
  • Just need hardware or gaskets? Skip to Parts & Accessories.

Step 1 — Measure the rough opening (not the old door)

The rough opening is the framed hole in your walk-in wall. Your replacement door is built to this opening — measuring the old door slab instead of the opening is the #1 ordering mistake in this industry.

ROUGH OPENING W1 (top) W2 (middle) W3 (bottom) H1 H2 Measure width at 3 heights and height at both sides — use the SMALLEST of each.
  • Measure the width at three heights (top, middle, bottom) and the height at both sides.
  • Use the smallest of each. Walk-in panels shift over the years; openings are rarely perfectly square.
  • Check for square by measuring both diagonals — if they differ by more than about 1/2", tell us; we can compensate.
  • Our prehung doors allow roughly 1" of rough-opening tolerance.

Step 2 — Measure your wall (panel) thickness

Open the existing door and measure the wall's thickness at the opening edge — do not include the door frame itself. Most walk-in panels are 3.5" to 6" thick; 4" is the most common. This determines the frame depth of your new door.

Step 3 — Determine your hinge side

Stand OUTSIDE the walk-in, facing the closed door. If the hinges are on your left, you need a left-hinge door. Hinges on your right, a right-hinge door. Every ELT swing door is available both ways.

Stand OUTSIDE the walk-in, facing the door door swings toward you LEFT HINGE hinges door swings toward you RIGHT HINGE hinges YOU (outside)

If you're replacing an existing door and the layout works, simply match what you have.

Step 4 — Identify your frame type

Frame types — top-down cross-section of the wall opening PLUG FRAME frame fills the opening door overlaps wall face Sits INSIDE the wall opening — flush "plug" section behind the door. Most common on panel walk-ins. JAMB FRAME jamb wraps the panel edges door closes into the jamb Wraps AROUND the panel edges like a traditional door jamb. Door sits within the frame depth. Not sure which you have? Photograph your current frame from inside and outside and send it with your quote request — we'll identify it.
  • Plug frame — the frame inserts into and fills the wall opening; the door overlaps the wall face. The standard choice for replacing a door in an existing opening.
  • Jamb frame — the frame wraps the edges of the opening like a house door jamb. The standard choice for new openings.
  • Picture frame / surface-mount (facing) frames — trim styles for special situations; if your current frame doesn't look like either diagram, send us photos.

Step 5 — Cooler or freezer?

  • Cooler (box stays above freezing, typically 35–41°F): standard door, no frame heat needed.
  • Freezer (32°F and below): the door must have a heated frame — heater wire around the opening prevents the door from freezing shut — plus a heated vent port. If your current freezer door frosts over or freezes shut, its heater wire has likely failed; that alone is a common reason to replace.

Step 6 — Note your walk-in's brand (if known)

Check for a data plate on the door frame, inside wall panel, or above the door. Common brands we replace doors for: Kolpak, Amerikooler, Master-Bilt, Nor-Lake, US Cooler, Bally, American Panel, Imperial Brown, W.A. Brown. Any brand of walk-in can be fitted with an ELT prehung replacement door — the brand just helps us match frame details faster.

The 6 most common mistakes

  1. Measuring the old door slab instead of the rough opening.
  2. Measuring width at only one height (openings sag and bow).
  3. Guessing the hinge side from inside the box — always determine it from outside.
  4. Ignoring wall thickness — a 4" frame in a 6" wall won't seal.
  5. Ordering a cooler door for a freezer box — the door will freeze shut without a heated frame.
  6. Not mentioning raised or recessed floors, ramps, or obstructions within 8" of the opening.

Opening damaged or badly out of square?

It happens — forklifts, moisture, and 20-year-old panels take a toll. Photograph the opening from inside and outside, note your measurements, and send everything to sales@eltcustomcoolers.com. We build custom doors and frames to fit imperfect openings.

Measured? Here's what's next

Questions at any step: 313-528-7888 — real people, in Detroit, who build these doors.

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Commercial Refrigeration Quote

Walk-In Box Quote

Complete the form below to request pricing for a custom walk-in cooler or freezer box. This version keeps the same form questions, but upgrades the layout and uses standard ELT door size options from the website for the door size section.

Section 01

Company Information

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Section 02

Walk-In Details

Enter the key specifications for the box so pricing can be prepared accurately.

Floor included?

Section 03

Equipment & Door

The door size field now uses standard sizes shown across ELT cooler and freezer door listings on the website.

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Section 04

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